Images may have shadows or reflections but gold is 14k or better, silver is 925 Sterling, platinum is 950
How to Make an Applique Bearclaw Bracelet
This is the Procedure for a 1" Bearclaw Bracelet with 3 - 14k gold paws appliquéd, (soldered), on.
An Appliqué Ring has about twice as many steps due to the soldering, grinding, cleaning and bending process...twice as much work for half the size.
Both appliqué metals are 1mm thick
This shows the difference between silver and gold. The 2 outside strips are silver , with 14k white gold in the center left and 14k yellow gold on the center right.
1. The gold is cut or punched from a sheet
2. The design is laid out with a ruler and a circle template
3. The metal is cut out with a very thin jewelers saw. The blade is about as wide as a sewing needle.
4. The cut out pieces are filed and sanded clean with 400 grit sand paper
5. Laid out and ready to solder
6. After a bath of flux they are soldered together
7. It is buffed , ( and buffed), to remove any scale. The pre-buffing also assures that the piece is not over buffed after being engraved
8. Ready for engraving
9. The strip is laid out on a 'block' and held on with jewelers cement. The block rotates in all directions
10. The engraving is done with these small chisels called gravers that fit in the palm of the hand and are pushed around the metal
11. The finished engraved bracelet
12. The corners are cut and rounded off, filed and sanded. The piece is signed on the back and attached back to the block if any inscription is to be done on the inside.
13. Another buffing to remove any scratches on the inside before it is bent
14. Using a dapping block the piece is pounded into shape. This pounding 'work hardens' it and gives it the spring and strength it needs. I cover the piece with an old leather belt so I don't mark it again.
15. The final buffing on the face and edges, without removing or rounding off the sharp engraved lines and edges
16. Boiled in hot water and dish soap and then into the Ultrasonic cleaner to remove any buffing compound.
17. Wipe it dry and off to another happy customer.