Engraving

The metal is laid out flat and carved with a small chisel, called a 'graver' that fit in the palm of the hand and are pushed.

Pro - Art, unique, stands out, (shines), negative impression

Con - Only slightly 3 dimensional, no patina or stone inlay possible

Appliqué

A shape is cut from one piece of metal and applied, (soldered), to another, then engraved.

Pro - 3rd dimension added, can set stones up to 4mm, can combine metals

Con- Straight more distinct edges than casting

Mountain ring sample

Bearclaw Bracelet sample

Wax Casting

A piece is carved from wax, a mold is made and the piece is cast and cleaned / detailed

Pro - 3 dimensional smooth surfaces

Con- can't combine metals in a single cast, more time consuming.

Machine/ Computer Design

An exact replica can be produced from a drawing with exact detail

Pro- precision and detail

Con- Not hand done, (unique), 2 dimensional depth, many steps in the procedure

5

All Pieces are signed with our Mark

FMM - Frank & Marlene Marasco

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A - B

C

What's the difference between Appliqué , Engraving, Etching and Casting?

Engraving is a carving into the metal with the chisels above. Engraved sample is 'A' on the left.

Appliqué is cut out shapes from a sheet that are soldered on top of the basic ring blank. Picture 'B'

Cast is a model that is cut from wax and then cast in an oven. Picture 'C'

Etching is done with an acid that will eat away any design that is not covered or painted on. We do not do etching.

Casting is more labor intensive but gives more depth/ height. Engraving at times gives more detail and is a negative impression.

7

What is a Comfort Fit Ring

The regular band has a slightly rounded edge from buffing, The comfort fit's edge is much more rounded. Our standard manufactured comfort fit ring has the center of usually 1.6mm thick in the middle and the edge tapered to 1.2 mm and if cut open, looks more like the shape of an eye with round corners.

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Metal ring gauges

How should I measure My Finger

Get measured by your local Jeweler with a 'wide band ring gauge'. This is important.Most of our rings are a wide band stock, 3/8", or the thinner 1/4" .

The regular jewelers thin gauge will sit down into the crotch of your finger , while a wide band ring extends up to the bulbous part of the finger, which generally means a 1/2 size bigger.

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D and E

What does Domed and Tapered mean ?

Domed

Domed means there is a curved surface and not flat in the direction of the knuckle to first finger joint...like a car tire.Take a look at the right side of pictures 'D' and 'E' to see the curve.

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F and G

Tapered....

The 'bottom' or 'back' of the ring is a smaller width to allow for finger movement.

'F' and 'G' are tapered rings. See how the back side is not as wide as the top ring surface

Stone Inlay

An appliqué is cut and soldered and the cavity filled with chips / crushed stone or gems

Pro- Multicolored possibilities, fills an irregular area

Cons- can not be used on thin bracelets, able to be hit and broken out

Patina

an appliqué is cut and soldered and the cavity filled with an acid which turns the silver black.

Pro- covers areas hard to reach / clean, good contrast effect

Con- wears out in time as it is rubbed.

Stone Setting

A few samples...

A and B-. Claw setting where a 4 or 6 prong claw is soldered in for the stone

C.- Press fit, The stone and setting are the same diameter and the metal is rubbed over the stones edge

D and E. Holes are drilled and pins are soldered in

F.- Left side- a 'cup' called a bezel is soldered on for the stone to sit into

F.- right side - a small bit of metal is pushed over the stones edge to make a small round 'bead'

E

F

What is the difference between silver, white and yellow gold and platinum ?

Top row- 14k White gold, 10k yellow and 18k yellow

Small Squares- Silver on top and Platinum on bottom with the hole.

Strips - 14k White and 14k Yellow Gold. Both un-buffed and ready for engraving

Gold Nugget as casting grain - 22k Yellow Gold

These are fairly close in color but generally just show the differences or similarities

Other Things

A and B- Bails soldered on the back of pendants for chains

C.- The top is thin and bent around in a loop for the chain

D.- A piece is soldered on as part of the design and looped, (great for feathers)

E. A standard Jump Ring

F.- A wraparound ring style, more generic and flexible sizing

G.- Engraving on one of our suppliers 2 tone manufactured bands

H.- White gold mountain tops cut and soldered on to a yellow gold strip

I.- Stippling , many many dots

J. - Many of our designs have the traditional west coast cross-hatching incorporated into the border

F

G

( manufactured rings here )

H

I

J

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K and L

M

N

What Borders and Ends are possible ?

These are just some samples of possible ring and bracelet ' ends '.

The most common is the cross-hatched space as in the long bracelet picture.

Eagle-head and Feather ends can be more creative with many heads or shapes possible.

This Gold Hawk bracelet ,'M',shows the border with cross-hatching

Other possible ends and borbers

Ring Shapes

These are some basic shapes as if the ring was streteched out flat.

Spring Lever Barrette Backs

Stainless Steel

What are the Opal like that you have ?

These are 2 pictures of the same 4 opals from a very slightly different camera angle.

We deal in basically 2 types of opals. The clear ' Fire' Opals as on the right of each picture...and the ' Blue / Green ' Opals as on the left sides.

Chain

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Where will the chain 'sit' on me ?

Have a look at the pictures on the left... from top to bottom the chain lengths are...18",20",22",24" and 26".

Depending on style...

- Tiny = 2 - 5 grams
-small = 5 - 12 grams
- medium = 12 - 20 grams
- large = 20 to 40 grams
- huge = 40 to 60 grams
- humungous = 60 plus grams

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How do you keep some metals from turning color ?

Good Luck !!! The nature of all things is to react with it's surroundings, such as air ,some better or worse than others. Also chemicals we come in contact with and body chemicals affect the metals. Have a peak at our ' Procedures' Page for a more detailed explanation and solutions.

We keep our jewelry looking lovely at the various shows by using a Jeweler's Buffing Cloth. ( plug: we also sell them for $-5 )

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What Type of Clasps are used ?

Lobster claws are the most common but other are available

Why does this ring or chain change color (turn my fingers / neck black or Green )?

Any discoloration is chemical. Either from you, the ring, or something you have come in contact with. Basically it is almost guaranteed to be a 'chemical ' problem. The metal is reacting to something, either an outside chemical or one from the persons body.
Every persons body chemicals are different and certain combinations of materials react with one another.
It is not a simple cut and dried explanation, but some of the reasons are listed below but in no particular order

Reasons why…it could be that ….

Lower karat golds, ( 9k , 10k ), have more copper alloy. This is why we sell only 14k gold and higher.
After potato chips, doritos, and other products with lots of salt and preservatives it could be a chemical reaction from the body eliminating these wastes. Perhaps a mild nitric acid is being produced by the body.
A trace of polishing compound is still present. Wash with hot water and dish soap.
Sterling silver not only reacts differently on different individuals, it can react differently at different times on the same individual, depending on their body chemistry at the time.
Some people react after having Italian food, or more specifically garlic and other spices.
Some prescription drugs change the body chemistry and may react with metals.
Chlorine should always be avoided ! ( swimming pools ).
The jeweler will quench in a pickle after soldering the piece.This can lead to entrapment of acid within the metal which is not removed by water or even an alkaline bath., but can leach out after it is worn. Inside buffing is required.